When you hear the word "backpacking,"chances are a salty breeze and sandy toes don’t come to mind. Still, I've always wondered what backpacking at the beach would be like. In January (2023) I got the chance to satisfy that curiosity. I hope you enjoy this overnight "beach-packing" adventure at Cumberland Island National Seashore.
Music featured in this video: "Fly High" by Mark July, "I Like This Dream" by Kaleidoscope, "Double Take" by Sensho, and "About You" by Cruen, "Summer Vibes" by Movediz, "Bluebird" by The Lakes, and "Midvinter" by Scott Buckley.
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
Cumberland National Seashore - Stafford Beach
Hike Overview
Type of hike: Loop & Out-and-back
Trails hiked: Sea Camp Rd, Stafford Beach trail, Pratts trail, Parallel trail, Ranger Station trail, River trail, and Coleman Ave.
Time span: 2 days 1 night
Total Est. Mileage: 9.25 miles (6.75 mile loop to and from Stafford + 2.5 mile out-and-back to Dungeness Ruins)
Trail Journal
I've always wondered what backpacking at the beach would be like. Unfortunately, there are very few places to actually do that close by. I wanted to hike the beach section of the MST into Ocracoke campground on our trip to the Outer Banks a few years ago, but I couldn't get all the logistics figured out in time. Maybe someday. The closest and next best thing I found was Cumberland National Seashore in Georgia. It offers a number of itinerary options from a half mile stroll into Sea Camp on the South end of the island to a 10 mile trek to Brickhill Bluff on the North end. On this trip, I decided to make a 7 mile loop to Stafford Campground using the Parallel trail and the beach.
Day One
Getting to the island takes some planning. First, I had to book a ferry ride through the NPS and arrive at the Visitors Center in time to find parking and check-in. Although I'd been to Cumberland once before and knew what to expect, it was still a bit nerve wracking. Despite arriving 15 minutes before the recommended check-in time, the parking lot across from the Visitor Center was completely full! I was able to park in a 36hr spot a short distance down the street though. I made my way back to the Visitor Center, climbed stairs to the office, and joined the long line forming inside. While I was waiting, I couldn't help but notice this girl a few places in front of me. She looked just like someone I knew, but I wasn't entirely sure. At the risk of looking like a total weirdo in front of all these strangers, I called her name across the room. The girl turned around, and to my relief it was her!
We caught up outside the Visitor Center while waiting for the ferry to board. It was nice having a friend to talk to on the ride over. It definitely beat sitting in awkward silence for the next 45 minutes. The staff onboard instructed all campers to put their packs and gear in a pile at the front of the boat. We pretended not to hear them and took a seat on the top deck. I tucked my pack between my knees, and she placed hers behind her feet. It sounds paranoid, but neither of us wanted to risk someone making off with our stuff. Campers are the last to disembark at a separate dock a mile from where the day visitors are let off. While it was unlikely another passenger would take gear from one of our packs pretending it was theirs... it wasn’t impossible.
At the Sea Camp Dock, we were greeted by a ranger who checked our permits and gave us the full run down of all the rules we needed to know while on the island. She also went over what to do if you encounter the feral horses. "Keep your distance. These are not domesticated horses. We've had visitors insist because they own horses or have experience with them they can ignore this rule, and they end up getting bit or kicked." She then explained if a horse or hog charges you, the best thing to do is put something, like a tree, between you and it. After opening the floor to any questions, the group was free to hike to their respective campgrounds.
I followed my friend through Sea Camp to her site. As we passed the construction area for the new restrooms, I couldn't hold back my laughter. During my first time camping at Cumberland, there was a hilarious debacle with the temporary restrooms the park service put up. While renovations took place, a little three stall shack with two toilets and a shower was put up. Somehow, that was supposed to accommodate all 18 sites at Sea Camp. As you can probably guess, it did not work out well. At one point during the evening a long line formed outside the restrooms. Just a few people into the line, somebody clogged one of the toilets. Understandably, most of the folks waiting were pretty ticked off. But things got really interesting when the next person line tried to flush the other toilet. Immediately, raw sewage came spewing out of the drain in the shower stall next door. Like a disgusting recreation of Old Faithful. I'm no plumber, but I'm pretty sure that's NOT supposed to happen. Thank goodness no one was trying to use the shower when it happened! In short, maintenance was called, the restrooms were closed, and everyone at Sea Camp had to learn the art of digging a cat hole that night.
Bright yellow fruit hung from the trees around the edge of her campsite. This brought up another memory from my first visit here. The unoccupied site across from mine had a fruit tree just like it. Despite my best efforts, I wasn't able to knock any off the branches. I was, however, able to help two other campers get the fruit from the tree at their own site the next day. I'm not exactly sure what kind of citrus fruit it was. It tasted less sweet than an orange but not as tart as a grapefruit. (If you're wondering what the rules are around this, the park service allows "small quantities of edible nuts and fruits to be gathered for personal consumption.")
It would have been nice to hang out with my friend a little longer, but it was almost 2 and I had a 3.5 mile hike to Stafford. I wanted to give myself plenty of time to gather firewood and set up camp before dark. You can get to Stafford Campground one of two ways: by forest or by beach. Both are an enjoyable walk in their own way, but how many chances would I get to backpack along open coast?! I'm so glad I opted for this route. It was a truly unique experience! Stepping off the Sea Camp access, I had a seemingly endless stretch of blue skies, white sand, and crashing waves ahead of me. Hiking at low tide only added to the vast feeling of the beach. For the next 3 miles I trekked along bright beautiful seashore, not another soul in sight.
Up ahead, a tall wooden sign stuck out above the dunes: "Stafford Campground Crossing." I followed the narrow boardwalk to a tunnel of water oaks and loblolly pinessteep. The path then lead me up a steep sandy hill cut between the dunes. On the other side was another tunnel of trees with the turn off to the campground at the very end. I was surprised to see how close together some of the sites were. The first three I passed bled together with no real barrier between them. I was a bit nervous my own site would also lack any kind of privacy. The one I reserved looked good enough from the pictures online, but and unappealing location can easily be disguised by a creative camera angle.
To my relief, it had decent tree coverage on all sides. It was also located a short distance from the restroom and water spigot. This was a pretty sweet spot. There was one shortcoming though: the gnarly live oak branches hanging over the only open place for a tent. The chances of one of them falling were low, but not zero. So, I did my best to position the tent between the branches. After I finished unpacking, I decided to take a stroll around Stafford. The crowd there wasn't very social. Nobody was out right rude, but the other folks walking around the camp didn't seem all that interested in making conversation either. The vibe was totally different from Sea Camp. I literally couldn't go more than 100 ft without someone stopping to chat when I stayed there. That's not to say this campground was worse. It just seemed better suited for those who want a longer walk into camp and to mind their own business when they get there.
While walking through Stafford, I started combing the path for firewood. Unfortunately, the area was picked clean. The camp was surrounded by trees, and yet there was barely a stick to be found on the ground. There were several other campers doing the same thing. All of us pacing up, down, and around in search of something substantial to burn only to return to our sites unsuccessful. I sat down on a makeshift bench by the fire ring to think. There was clearly no point in continuing to look here. After a minute, it hit me. I knew exactly where to get more than enough firewood!
I set back out on the trail to the beach. Just passed the hill between the dunes I stopped to scavenge in the woods on either side of the path. Sure enough, there were sticks and branches of all sizes there for the taking. I made a wide sweep of area, leaving little piles at the edge of the path. Once I felt like had I gathered enough, I made my way back toward the campground, consolidating the piles as I passed them. I carried as much as I could at a time. I ended up making three total trips to and from my site. I now had plenty of firewood for the long dark hours ahead.
Just before sunset, I decided change into camp clothes and venture out one more time. Toting my sleeping bag and sit pad, I crossed the boardwalk to the beach. My timing was perfect! Shades of pink and orange were starting to light up the sky in all directions. I sat down and took it all in. The wind whipped all over the place, so I made sure to wrap the sleeping bag around me as tightly as possible. Nothing could ruin the night faster than having it whisked away and into the ocean. Surprisingly, no one else from Stafford came out to watch the sunset! I didn't mind having the beautiful scenery all to myself, but I also felt kind of sad that everyone else had missed out.
I got back to camp, and pulled my food bag out of the bear box. I guess since there aren't any bears at Cumberland, a better term would be food storage locker? The boxes are meant to deter a number of animals on the island, but most of all racoons. From what one of the rangers told me, the crafty trash pandas there have learned every trick imaginable for nabbing campers' food. The only way to keep them out was installing metal lockers at every site in Sea Samp and Stafford.
I set up everything I needed to fix dinner in the dark. I decided to bring an alcohol stove on this trip. Every so often I give a different kind of stove another try, just to see if I like it better than the one I always use. I never do though. I always find myself wishing I had gone with my generic canister stove instead. This time wasn't any different. Sure, the little alcohol stove got the job done. But at a snail's pace! While waiting for the water to boil, I got to work on building a fire. I placed a large damp log I fished out of the woods on the edge of the pit. The goal was to built a strong enough blaze in the middle using smaller branches to help dry it out. It worked out great. Once it caught fire, that log lasted me most of the night.
A hefty storm rolled through a few hours after I went to bed. The rain splattered on the ground spraying sand and mud all over the underside of the rainfly. The loud thunderclaps and bright flashes of lightning woke me up and nearly scared me to death. It really caught me off guard since there were no storms shown in the forecast that night. What I found even stranger was talking to my friend about it later on. She said they only got a light drizzle at Sea Camp. Meanwhile, a full on thunderstorm raged just 3 miles North at Stafford.
Day Two
Although the rain had passed, residual drops still fell from the trees and pelted the tent. I thought about staying curled up in my warm, dry sleeping bag a bit longer, but I needed to give the rainfly as much time as possible to dry out. So, I crawled out of the tent and tossed on my rain jacket. I peeled the soaking wet fly off the tent and hung it over one of the live oak branches. After rinsing all the grit off my hands, I sat down to make breakfast and decide what I was going to do with my last day here. Should I wander North into the wilderness area I’ve never seen before? Maybe do the tour at Plum Orchard... Or go re-explore the historic sites on the South end? I probably could have taken the tour and made it back in time for the ferry, but I'd be cutting it close. So, I opted for visit the Dungeness Ruins again.
Despite hanging the fly up to dry while I ate and broke down camp, it was still saturated. I tried shaking some of the water out, but there was no point. So, I jammed it into the stuff sack with the rest of the tent to deal with later. Instead of retracing my steps along the beach, I headed back South on the Parallel trail. Live oaks covered in Spanish moss hung overhead while huge saw palms lined the path on either side. It was an absolutely beautiful hike through maritime forest!
Walking up to the Ranger Station, I could see someone sitting on one of the benches outside. As I got closer, I recognized my friend from earlier. I was confused to see her still here. She was supposed to leave on the morning ferry. Was it a glitch in the Matrix or something? Turns out she missed it... sort of. She showed up early to wait for the ferry with everyone else, but while they were waiting she went to the restroom. Apparently, it arrived and started boarding while she was in there and no one bothered to tell her. Next thing she knew she was running down the dock as the ferry pulled away. Ordinarily, the only option when that happens is to wait for the next ferry. But some of the staff were making a trip to the mainland before then. They agreed to give her a ride if she could meet them at the other dock by noon.
The other dock was on the way to where I was going, so we walked together for the next mile. I waited there with her on some picnic benches until a Forest Service truck came down the dirt road. Three men from the security staff got out and escorted her onto their boat. The first thing they tell you at the Visitors Center and when you get to the island is NOT to miss the ferry ride back. You figure it's just one of those precautionary speeches they have to give for something that rarely happens... but maybe it happens a lot more than you think.
I continued down the road to Dungeness. As I walked, a thick cloud cover rolled in and the wind picked up. It was chilly enough that I had to stop and put my jacket back on. I spent the next hour or so walking around the ruins of the old mansion and other buildings that once stood on the property. Dungeness mansion has a long history dating back to the late 1700s. It was originally part of a plantation owned by Revolutionary War General Nathaniel Greene. Sadly, he passed away a few years after establishing it. His widow, Catherine, continued to run the plantation alongside its manager Phineas Miller. About ten years later they got married, and the plantation remained in operation up until the 1830s under her daughter.
Sometime later, the original mansion burned down and the property was bought as a Winter home by Andrew and Lucy Carnegie. Lucy would eventually own 90% of the island and make it her permanent residence. After her death, maintaining Dungeness and various other structures on Cumberland would prove to be too expensive for Lucy's trust fund to sustain. Her children pursued a number of ventures to make the land profitable, but the income was never enough to keep up with the expenses. To make matters more complicated, a clause in Lucy's will forbade the children from selling the island unless all of them were in agreement. With no consensus on what they should do, the siblings were burdened with a property they couldn't afford. Dungeness mansion burned down again in 1959, but by this time it had fallen into disrepair and only one of the Carnegie children was still living. There's a lot more to Cumberland's history, but those are some of the main plot points.
While walking around the side of the mansion, I spotted a herd of horses way off in the distance. But by the time I made it down the hill they were gone. They left behind deep muddy tracks in the road. I stood there debating whether to follow or go back to the ruins. Suddenly, there was the sound of beating hoofs. A horse came charging out of the woods, barely missing me. It made a U-turn and headed back my way. Remembering what the ranger said, I jumped behind a tree. The horse passed by a second time before following its companions down the road. I decided that was more than enough excitement for one day! Time to head back to the safe boring ranger station.
Along the way, I stopped to take shelter in the little museum. The building didn't have any doors, but it was much better than being outside. After taking some time to look at the pictures and artifacts on display, I laid down on a bench in the corner. I was starting to get a bad headache, so I figured resting my eyes for a bit might help. It was pretty short lived though. Every few minutes a huge gust came through and beat the banners hanging from the ceiling against wall. I wouldn’t get much rest as long as that was going on. So, I worked up the nerve to face the cold wind again and make it the rest of the way to the ranger station.
There were already a few people waiting for the ferry when I got there. I quickly changed back into my camp clothes and sat down near a couple visiting for the day. We made small talk until a ranger came and called everyone into the classroom on the backside of the building. It was so warm and cozy inside! For the next 30 minutes she gave a presentation about the animals living on the island. She showed us various pelts and skulls and talked about how the non-native species like horses and armadillos got there. When it was finally time to board the ferry, I took a seat in the cabin. I shoved my pack under the table, pulled my hat over my face, and took a 45 minute nap. The weather toward the end may have been less than ideal, but overall this had been a fun excursion. Not only did I get a chance to backpack at the beach, I got to do it during a season when I typically take a break from the outdoors.
Know Before You Go
Cumberland National Seashore is a one-of-a-kind destination. Although there are a few logistics to work out beforehand, it is well worth visiting! Especially if you intend on camping or backpacking. Hopefully you find some of the info below helpful for planning your own island adventure.
The first thing to consider is when to go. Due to the island's hot and humid climate, the best time to visit, in my opinion, is December through March. I took my first trip to Cumberland in December and the second in January. Believe it or not, it was still pretty warm at the beginning of December with highs in the upper 70s. I found the cooler temperatures of mid January a lot more enjoyable. Next order of business is reservations. You'll want to get your ticket for the ferry as well as camping permit sorted out at least a few days before your visit. Campsite availability and ferry times book up fast! The websites for each reservation are listed under the "more info" section. It's important to note: ferry times and frequency vary based on the season. If you want to bring your four-legged friend, they can only visit for the day. They can't stay overnight. You'll also have to take a private boat because the Park Service ferry will not transport them.
While there is a designated lot located across the street from the St. Mary’s Visitor Center, parking can still be tricky. Like reservation slots, the gravel parking lot fills up fast! Your competition includes the folks getting on the ferry with you as well as visitors /campers from previous ferries that haven't returned. Despite getting there an hour and fifteen minutes before the ferry departure time, I wasn't able to park in the lot on either of my visits. Thankfully, 36-hour parking spots are available a short distance down the street from the Visitor Center.
Securing a parking spot isn't the only reason to arrive early. The check-in process takes some time and the line can be long. It's recommended to arrive one hour before your ferry departure time. During check-in, the park staff goes over general information, verifies reservations / permits, and collects a park entrance fee. If camping, you'll need to print a copy of your permit (sent via email) beforehand. Camping permits will be checked at the ranger station and then displayed on your site's post marker after arriving on the island. A short orientation is held at the dock to go over final rules and regulations before boarding the ferry.
Sea Camp vs Stafford
There are five campgrounds on Cumberland Island. Sea Camp, Stafford, Hickory Hill, Yankee Paradise, and Brickhill Bluff. The first two are the most popular and offer amenities. Sea Camp is a short 0.5 mile walk from the dock / ranger station, while Stafford requires a 3.5 mile hike in. The other three are located in designated wilderness on the Northern part of the island and require a 5.5, 7.5, and 10.5 mile hike in (respectively). Sites at Sea Camp cost $22 per night and sites at Stafford cost $12 per night. A permit for any of the three wilderness camps is $9 per night.
So, where should you stay? It depends on what kind of experience you’re looking for. I personally have only stayed at Sea Camp and Stafford. So, I can't really speak to what it's like staying at the wilderness camps. But I can tell you there are no amenities such as restrooms or food storage lockers, untreated water is available from a nearby well, and fires are prohibited. (Using a camp stove is okay.)
Sea Camp is a short easy walk from the ranger station and carts are available for transporting gear to and from this campground. Sites at Sea Camp are very spacious. They include a picnic table, food storage locker, and fire ring. Water spigots are located in various places across the campground. A newly renovated restroom is also available to campers. If you're looking for a more leisurely or family friendly camping experience, Sea Camp is for you.
Stafford is better suited for folks seeking a backpacking experience without sacrificing all the amenities. Because it is located 3.5 miles from the ranger station, campers will need to carry everything in on their back. Carts cannot be used to transport gear to this campground. Accessibility often draws the social and rambunctious crowds, so you're also likely to have more solitude staying at Stafford rather than at Sea Camp. The sites at Stafford are smaller and closer together than those at Sea Camp though. However, the amenities are similar. Each site has a fire ring and food storage locker. (No picnic tables) Water spigots and a restroom are also available.
Now let's talk about the overall cost to visit Cumberland National Seashore. I wouldn't consider this a budget-friendly adventure. It's pretty dang expensive compared to what I typically spend backpacking in State Parks and National Forests. The ferry ride is $40 per person round trip. Camping permits range between $9 and $22. Lastly, there's the park entrance fee of $15 per person. If you have a National Parks Pass though, that will cover the entrance fee. Assuming you're staying at either Sea Camp or Stafford and don't have a park pass, the bill for a solo overnight trip comes to $67 - $77. All that being said, I still think Cumberland is a unique enough destination that the cost of visiting is worth paying once if not twice!