*Special thanks to Katie for providing some of the pictures and video for this trail journal.
Music featured in this video: “Some Kind of Feelin” by Ben Johnson and “Steadfast” by The Lakes
Know before you go...
Hikers come from all around to see hundreds of bright yellow daffodils spring to life in Linville Gorge. This incredible phenomenon happens around the same time each year, but the window is short. The flowers typically reach their peak in late February and early March. You can experience Daffodil Flats a number of ways as either a day hike, car camping trip, or backpacking trip. Visitors also have the option to approach the flats from the North via Pinch-in Trail or from the South via the MST / Pinnacle Trailhead. Whichever way you choose, be prepared for a workout. The declines on the trip in and inclines on the trip out are brutal!
If you're looking for solitude, Daffodils Flats is not the place to find it. This is a VERY popular destination. Even on a weekday you can expect to see 50+ other people there. Because of its popularity, the official parking areas at both trailheads are typically jampacked. Visitors unable to find a spot tend to park along the road. Sometimes as far as 1/4 mile back on either side. However, I do NOT recommend doing this as the Forest Service has been issuing more parking citations in recent years. Some visitors reported receiving a $130 ticket! It's also important to know, the gravel road (Old 105 / Kistler Memorial Highway) leading to the trailheads is very rough in places. It has been graded recently though. Many hazardous ruts, potholes, and jagged boulders in the road were filled in or covered. Higher clearance vehicles should have little trouble reaching the trailheads. Smaller sedans on the other hand may have some difficulty, especially if conditions are wet.
Hike Overview
Type of hike: Out and back
Trails hiked: Pinch-in Trail and Linville Gorge Trail (aka Linville River Trail)
Time span: 2 days 1 night
Total Mileage: 5.5 miles
Day 1
Pulling up to the Pinnacle trailhead, I couldn’t believe the crowds. An onslaught of vehicles lined the road on either side. I came to a stop as hikers crossed back and forth from the trailhead. I held my breath and slowly crept forward, as if that would somehow make my SUV a little skinnier. Bumpers and fenders stuck out in every direction. It was like driving between two Jenga towers. There wasn’t much space, but I managed to get by. As I passed the trailhead, Katie called. We agreed, there was no way either of could get a spot there. So, we decided to move on the Pinch-in instead. The situation there was the same. We eventually managed to find an unoccupied area to park some distance away.
We unloaded our packs and made our way to the trailhead. Pinch-in Trail took a downhill dive straight away. After several steep muddy declines, the wood line retreated and we found ourselves standing on an outcrop. The views across the Gorge were breathtaking. The trail continued its descent along the ridge, bringing us near a massive rock feature. Some guys had dropped their packs below to climb to the top of it. We followed Pinch-in along several more rocky muddy declines before finally reaching Linville Gorge Trail. At the junction, the path flattened instantly. The sound of rushing water ahead was music to my ears. We followed the trail beside the river and through rhododendrons.
After passing three other campsites, we came to one a short distance off the main trail. We dropped our packs and started setting up our tents. We saw dozens of day hikers come and go on our way in, but only two other folks staying overnight. Most of the evening was spent gathering wood, eating dinner, and sitting by the fire. For this trip, I decided to pack a camp chair. Over the Winter, I spent a lot of time backpacking with a new friend who takes a chair on every trip. I never thought of myself as the type to want or need a chair. But after a while, I started to covet hers. So, I bought a 1.5lb chair for a decent price on Amazon… just to try it. If I decided backpacking with a chair wasn't for me, it wouldn't be a huge financial loss. I could still use it for car camping. This was my second outing with the chair and let me tell you: it was a major upgrade from the inflatable sit pad I usually use. Before turning in for the night, we set the alarm for 8. The plan was to fix breakfast and hopefully make it to Daffodil Flats before the crowds do.
Day Two
The next morning, Katie prepared a full breakfast buffet: coffee, eggs, cheese grits, and bacon (jerky). The wonderful thing about overnight trips with a short hike in is, you can afford the weight penalty of camp chairs and going all out on meals. We left everything behind at camp to make the one mile trek to Daffodil Flats. Along the way, we had a stunning Winter view of Shortoff Mountain towering over the river. We almost passed our destination at first. But after catching a glimpse of the yellow field through the trees, we backtracked to a short entry path.
Daffodil Flats was a truly incredible sight. Vibrant flowers covered the forest floor. After months of cold and dreary Winter scenery, this was the ray of hope so many hikers look forward to. A sign that warmer days are just around the corner. The bright patches of yellow and green brought so much life back to the dormant forest. I was worried the lack of sunshine this morning would leave them sad and droopy. Despite the overcast sky, the daffodils were standing tall.
We took several pictures and wandered back toward the wood line to a dilapidated pile of stone. From what I’ve been told, this is what’s left of a chimney from the old Dellinger family homesteaded. The daffodils were planted by the family over 100 years ago and continue to bloom there each Spring. Some fascinating stories from the Gorge’s history can be found on the Linville Mountain History Society Facebook page. Many of which are shared by Ms. Denise, a descendent of the Dellinger family.
Just a handful of people were there when we arrived. By 10 am, there were well over 30 at the Flats. Several hikers set up hammocks, tarps, and picnic blankets. It made me think of the “you did not sleep there” trend that was popular on Instagram for a while. It's a compilation of people posing in staged campsites for social media. Some of them were positively ridiculous. Our time with the daffodils was short but sweet. We decided to head back to the campsite for lunch as larger groups started pouring in.
Shortly after we returned, we had an... awkward encounter. A line of ten hikers came down the side path to the site. The leader of the group asked if they could eat lunch here. It was a decent size site, but there was nowhere near enough room for 10 additional people. I also didn’t want to put my dog, Barrett, in a situation where he would feel cornered. Shepherds can be pretty defensive around strangers. So, I said I would rather they didn’t and recommended the unoccupied sites a few feet down the trail. While the rest of the group went back toward the trail, the man stayed behind. He demanded repeatedly that we accommodate them. After another minute of trying to explain our position, he stormed away. We finished eating and packing up about an hour and a half later. I was a bit concerned about the man hassling us if we ran into him again on the trail. Thankfully we did not.
The hike back up Pinch-in Trail was merciless. 1.10 mile of quad-burning, asthma-inducing, nearly vertical inclines. We began the return trip together. But less than a quarter of the way into it, Katie and I realized we needed to take this at completely different paces. Barrett and I would go ahead at our speed and meet back up with her at the trailhead.
We tackled the climb in short bursts, stopping just long enough to drink some water and for me to regain feeling in my legs. This was without a doubt one of the steepest trails I've ever hiked. On the bright side, Barrett and I make an excellent team. When I stopped he stopped. When I continued he did too. He practically read my mind every step of the way. I love backpacking with my dog for lots of reasons, and moments like that are at the top of the list. As we neared the top I started giving a motivational speech "Come on Bud, you got this. Just 1/4 mile to go. You can do it. Good boy, you're doing great" Although I was talking to Barrett, I was mostly doing it for my own benefit.
At the trailhead, I found a place for us to rest. After a minute of sitting on the damp wood beams bordering the parking lot, I remembered I had a camp chair. I practically melted into that thing! Barrett laid down in the leaves next to me, and we split the last of the water. I sent a message on the inReach to Katie, letting her know I made it and I was waiting for her. She caught up about 15 minutes later. All in all, I think backpacking into the Gorge to see the daffodils was a great idea. While I wouldn't make it an annual thing, I can see myself visiting Daffodil Flats again. If I do though, I'll try to get an earlier start... and probably travel lighter by car camping.