I thought the late night hiker was crazy, but only a really crazy person would try to tackle Heartbreak Ridge, Laurel Valley, and the climb up Sassafras in one day… I guess I'm crazy. It definitely kicked my butt! I was prepared to collapse into my tent right after reaching camp... but this day had much better things in store.
Music featured in the video: “Cold Coffee” by Michael Ramir C. “Every Time” by Katy Kirby, and “Which That is This” by Doctor Turtle
Trail Journal
October 16th 2020
Toxaway Creek to Chimney Top Gap
14.6 miles
I thought the day before was rough, this one topped it! While it certainly contributed, I can honestly say Heartbreak Ridge is not what whooped my behind. Some stairs were so steep and crooked I laughed out loud. How in the heck am I going to climb up that? With hands AND feet that's how. At the top of one set of stairs I saw a rotted-out bench facing what would have been an overlook in Winter months. But at this time of year, it was still too overgrown to see. What a cruel joke. Looking back, I wish now I had stopped to take a picture of it then. But what I think makes Heartbreak Ridge especially cruel is it doesn’t matter which direction you go, you’ll face a painful amount of up AND down stairs either way.
Singing to myself really helped pass the time. For whatever reason I had “The House at Pooh Corner” by Loggins and Messina stuck in my head. So imagine a dirt caked girl with a pack half her size singing about Winnie the Pooh on an 10 hour loop. I probably could have tossed a little more variety in there by pulling up a playlist on my phone, but between the GPS app and taking video, I didn't want to use up any more battery.
Laurel Valley is what really got me.
I don't have the best history with this section. Back in March Jordan and I took an overnight trip to Laurel Fork Falls. Everything was great until the return trip. As soon as we started hiking back out I injured my knee. It was literally crippling. the entire 8 miles I took tiny shuffling granny steps up every stair and incline.
Bet you can't guess what happened the moment I started making my way out of Laurel Valley. While the injury wasn't nearly as bad as the last time it still sucked and made me worry how I was going to make it another 10 miles to Chimney Top. I stopped to brace my knee and grab a snack. Seeing how little was left in my food bag added to the list of worries. There was just enough for dinner tonight, 3 meals tomorrow, and breakfast Sunday. After that it would be completely empty. What if I get REALLY hungry?! I'll have literally nothing to spare!
I saw Marc for the last time at Flat Rock while taking yet another break to elevate my knee. Turns out he had the same experience as me: being woken up in the middle of the night by flood light man. Before I left he reminded me about the gnome and made me promise to take a picture of it when I get there.
Limping, exhausted, and still singing about Winnie the Pooh I finally made it to the sign: Sassafras Mt. 4.5 miles. Praise the Lord, I was only going part of that distance. About half a mile from Chimney Top I had a pretty strange encounter. Up ahead was this young guy wearing sunglasses, playing on his phone, sitting in the middle of the trail. Not on the side. Right across the path.
"Hi, how’s it going?" I said
He stood up, mouth hanging wide open, and just stared. Then he made what sounded like a grunt. I noticed a sleeping pad sticking out of his bag when I walked passed. My brain started flipping out. This guy is probably on his way to the same camp as me. I’ll have to be on guard all night against this weirdo. What if I have to defend myself?
I never saw him again. I guess having a bunch of things to worry about, made my brain a little irrational.
When I got to Chimney Top a few people were already there: two ladies and a guy with a dog.
"Can I camp with y’all?" I called from the bridge.
"Why not?" one lady said "The more the merrier"
Little did I know, that was about to be the theme of the night.
The guy, David, was going back to get a whole caravan! 6 people and a 2nd dog. While he was gone I got a chance to talk with my other two campmates: Beth and Nancy. These sisters were so freaking cool. From what I gathered, they've been through a ton of wild outdoor adventures together over the years. They started their thru-hike the year before and were finishing it this week.
David's group was also pretty amazing. I could go through all the names and backstories, but I'll sum it up by saying these were the most generous people I have ever met and I don't think they’ll ever know how many of my prayers were answered by their kindness.
I want you to imagine the perfect Norman Rockwell campfire scene, if ever he painted one. Everyone sitting around laughing, roasting marshmallows, a couple playing guitar singing together.
At around 9 most of the group decided to turn in for the night, leaving only a few of us still by the fire… and that’s when the REALLY ridiculous stories started. If I understand correct David was a wilderness instructor for a rehabilitation program. He explained part of the course was digging a proper cat hole. The highest rating you could earn was 5 stars. There was a lot of criteria for what made a TRULY 5 star hole, but the sure fire way to get it was digging a "Loo with a View" This could be achieved in one of two ways:
1) A cat hole overlooking a spectacular view of the natural scenery OR
2) A cat hole strategically placed so you can see everyone at camp, but they can’t see you.
He also went into detail on the various techniques they came up with for using the cat hole. There was the "Orangutan Hang", the "Koala Bear", and the often referenced but never actually replicated "Spread Eagle." As you can imagine I laughed myself to sleep that night.